Florence Gastro Guide

Chapter 10, of another bloody gastro guide, in Florence, Italy!

Being serious is not what I do best. But I am serious about over-tourism and its effects on the authentic energy of places and the lives of the people inhabiting tourist hotspots. Florence is a tourist hotspot, and it has been hard to ignore the current conversation surrounding it here in Florence. But like I already said, being serious is not what I do best. You should turn to Emiko Davies for that, who outlines the current situation in Florence here. Or check out Judi Witts Francini's writing, who has lived in Florence for many years and knows best about the changing dynamics of her beloved local markets.

I spoke to Judi before coming to Florence, and she was amazingly generous in pointing me towards many genuine spots to experience the Florence that she knows and loves. I would trust Judi over TikTok one million times over. Wouldn't you? So here goes, back to what I do best, the fun bit: that bloody foody's guide to Florence, led mainly by the wonderful Judi Witts Franchini.

Prego! (You're welcome!).

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Spritz and panino it

I hear panino's are one of the most hyped foods in Florence, but I wouldn't know. I was thrilled with my uncool panino at Pino's sandwiches in the local Sant'Ambrogio neighbourhood. This one was with traditional Tuscan salami and aubergine. You should try Finocchiona salami, too, a salami with fennel seeds.

See what’s kicking at the Sant'Ambrogio market

By all means, go to the San Lorenzo market, but if you, like me, enjoy rubbing shoulders with the locals, the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio is for you. Make friends with the meat men, chat with the cheesemonger, and bumble about the special Florentine tomatoes so long that you discuss how to cook them with the tomato seller. Whatever floats your boat. Just get to the market, I say.

Rice! ice! baby!

If you're into affogato (coffee and ice cream), by all means, go to Vivoli for the hyped Instagrammable version they have there, but if you ask me, you're there for the rice ice cream (riso). Yes, rice ice cream with pieces of rice in it and everything. Mark my words, you won't even be thinking about that affogato. Gelato is also incredible from Carabe. Thanks, Judi!

Brave a panino Lampredotto

It is no secret that I am brave enough to try tripe, but the Florentines are, too! Panino Lampredotto is as traditional of a pannino as it gets. It’s nice, slathered in salsa verde (a herby sauce). Be brave, babies. Good at the cart outside San Lorenzo market.

Or be a porchetta princess

If tripe doesn’t take your fancy, there is always the porchetta. Freshly cooked pork joint stuffed with herbs and slathered into a bread roll, nice with or without sundried tomatoes and artichokes. To be an actual porchetta princess, like me, take half the bread off and have two.

Let the cows do the talking

The Florentines do steak better than London does pigeons. Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a loin steak, always cooked rare; is what dreams are made of. I’ll just let the meat do the talking now. Good in many places, not going to patronise you with suggestions.

Try Tuscan Gazpacho, not Tuscan bread

As put by Jordan Ezra King in his hate piece on Tuscan bread. Tuscan bread ‘is awful. Like properly shit.’ The thing with Tuscan bread is that it is unsalted, which is what makes it properly shit, which is why it is perfect for whizzing together with tomatoes, SALT and garlic to make this concoction which the Tuscans say is tomato soup, but isn’t soup. It’s called Papa Al Pomodoro and it is the best way to use Tuscan bread (in my humble opinion).

Sabatino It

You might have to queue to go to Sabatinos, not because it's hyped necessarily, but because it is one of the only old-school trattorias in Florence at prices that locals are more used to that doesn't cut out on quality. Just taste the olive oil on the salads, and you'll get what I'm talking about. Start with a classic aperitif of parma ham and melon, and make sure you get the fagioli (cannellini beans cooked simply in olive oil and herbs).

Sugo Ragù it

Tuscan ragù (Sugo) is a meat sauce cooked with or without tomatoes and sometimes with wine. I am not here to get into the politics of it; just try some sugo in Florence, and don't ask for spaghetti bolognese; that's embarrassing for all parties concerned. The first picture is the most traditional pasta shape for a Tuscan sugo (pici al Ragù Toscano).

At the San Lorenzo market? Nerbone It

If you go to the San Lorenzo Central Market, make sure to stop off at Nerbone. This buzzy counter-style spot that offers any Tuscan delight, including Lampredotto and porchetta, plus salads, pasta, and gnocchis.

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That’s it for today, folks, but I’ll probably return to you with a more general post on Tuscany. I’m still here! Thanks again to Judi Witts Franchini and a million thanks for being here with me to you all.

A million kisses,

From that bloody foody, that is, Lana,

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