Budapest Gastro Guide

Chapter 9, of another bloody gastro guide, in Budapest, Hungary!

If you have a strong enough stomach to digest the Stag do banter, endless tourist chimney cake, and lángos (fried bready pizza like thing) stands that you'll be bombarded with in Budapest, you will have a delicious time there.

One thing for sure is that Hungarian food will never leave you Hungary. Yes, it's goulash, but it goes way beyond bloody goulash, I'll have you know.

So, let's have you know, shall we? I'll tell you all about it—that bloody foodie's guide to not being hungry in Hungary!

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Search for sausage and peruse the peppers at the Central Market Hall

The Hungarian love for peppers goes beyond the paprika seasoning you'll find in a goulash. Rest assured, if you walk around a Hungarian market, you'll see shades and shapes of peppers you've yet to encounter. I love those pale yellow ones in the first picture (sweet Hungarian wax peppers), which also come in a hotter variety.) But it is not just peppers at the market; it's an extraordinary place packed with cured meats, pickles, seasonal fruits, cheeses and baked goods. Just local stuff, really, carp at the fishmongers, no French oysters or bass caught on the British Isles in sight. And sausages, my loves, galore, just how I like it.

Have a pickle picnic

Deep down in the dungeon of the Grand Central Market (on the underground floor), you will find cauldrons full of pickling things: cabbages, peppers—mainly peppers, actually, of many types—tomatoes, garlic, all ready to tantalise your taste buds. Pick up a bottle of pickle potion, have a pickle picnic, and make all the witches happy.

Cake and coffee it in a palace

Okay, Lana. Technically, it wasn't a palace, but guys, It felt like one. In Budapest, there are grand cafes, which are grander than your wildest dreams. At Párisi Passage Restaurant, I was literally serenaded by a string courtet. If that's not grand enough for you, I don't know what it is. Have whatever cake you like, but the one I had in the photos is traditional in Budapest. The first picture is an Esterházy slice that I had at  Café Gerbeaud, named after a Hungarian noble consisting of buttercream, walnuts, and fondant. Or picture 2. A flodni, a Hungarian Jewish pastry layer cake of apple, walnuts, poppy seeds, and plum jam.

Double cabbage it

Like it or not, cabbage is a big part of Hungarian cuisine. Luckily for me, I love it, so I was happy to have extra cabbage served alongside my stuffed cabbage. My cabbage rolls were stuffed with minced meat and rice, and the accompanying salad was pickled cabbage, like sauerkraut but hot. I tried this at a fantastic hot food spot on top of the central market called Panoráma Ételbár.

Clean a gooses leg

I hope the goose was as happy as I was that I cleaned its leg. It is a must-try dish in Budapest even when it isn't Christmas time. I tried mine at the iconic Jewish Hungarian Restaurant, Rosenstein Vendéglő.

And then chomp on its skin too

Goose crackling, my friends, yes, goose crackling. Heart eye emoji. I found quite a plethora of different cracklings at the market, actually. Winky face emoji + proud of myself face emoji + thank you Mr or Mrs goose sentiments.

Goulash or Paprikash?

This isn’t really a question; you should try both. Goulash itself is two things, really. It can either be a very brothy soupy version as photographed here, or it can be a thicker sauce served, most traditionally with tiny egg dumplings that you see here also; those dumplings are served with a paprikash though, that one with veal. The main difference is that paprikash is usually made with chicken, doesn’t have vegetables and is enriched with sour cream and flour. They are both wholesome stews made with meats and paprika bases. The soup goulash on the left was a bargain and delicious at Belvárosi Disznótoros, and the veal paprikash was from the super traditional Hungarian beauty of a restaurant, Rosenstein Vendéglő.

Chomp all of the sausages at Belvárosi Disznótoros

If you, like me, count sausage as one of your five a day, don’t miss out on Belvárosi Disznótoros, the canteen of dreams. Get anything there, but the main event is the sausage, paprika, blood, and pork liver. Follow me with a beautiful dollop of meaty mashed potato, mustard, red cabbage, and more pickles. You’ll satisfy your belly and your pocket.

I did eat one chimney cake, no comment.

And one Lángos, no comment.

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Well, I never, that’s it then for Budapest.

Please come back next time; when…where will we be Lana? Probably in Amsterdam!

Chow babies,

From that bloody foody, that is, Lana,

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