Asturias Spain Gastro Guide
Chapter 6, of another bloody gastro guide, in Asturias, Spain!
Asturias might not be on your travel radar yet, but why not? Trust me, go nowhere searching for a post on Barcelona. Asturias deserves your hungry attention.
Where is Asturias Lana? I am so glad you asked. It is an autonomous region on the north coast of Spain (AKA Green Spain). The capital is Oviedo, but it also comprises small fishing villages, quaint mountain towns, and coastal cities like Gijón.
The thing with Asturias, my friends, is, of course, the food, if you know me by now, but it is also the beaches (just look at the videos at the bottom of the post).
What is the catch? Well, the climate is similar to Scotland's in the winter! It rains, and it rains, and it rains, but do not fear; it does get hot in the summer! Because these beaches are not scorching hot all year round, Asturias has remained more or less untouched by the mega tourist trails.
So, basically, in summary, I challenge you to find anywhere in Europe like Asturias, where the food is cien por cien (100 per cent) tasty, and where the beaches are sometimes wholly private, with mountains too.
Asturian food warms the cockles for the winter; as to the Spanish, Asturias is so cold, it may as well be Antarctica. I tend to travel to Asturias in these colder months so that I can lean into the stews and huge portions, but the northern Spanish coastline is a treasure trove of some of the best seafood in the whole world, so there is something for even the most summery of moments.
So, why don't I crack on and share my Asturian heart for hearty food with you?
Venga (Let’s go!)
Try any cake that you see with crema
Asturias is the cakiest region in Spain, so it is a good place to lean into your sweet tooth. I am not a pastry chef, but I know an excellent custard when I see it. In Spain, crema is essentially custard, and I am like a moth to a custard flame.
Try a Carbayón
Are you a Krispy Kreme doughnut person? Yes? Well, a carbayón is like a Krispy Kreme doughnut but with almonds and less dough. Yep, it's great. The best place to get them is in the iconic Confitería Rialto in Oviedo, actually, try anything there.
Be called una máquina (a machine) by the waiter for eating an entire Cachopo alone
A Cachopo is an absolutely huge breaded fillet of steak wrapped in Spanish jamon AND cheese and fried in olive oil. It will not leave you hungry; it is actually sort of a joke, isn't it? But it's a joke I am happy to play with. It can be a stretch to find one with good quality meat, though, as many restaurants choose size over substance. This one was from Sideria El Gato Negro, which is a fantastic shout if you are in the city of Oviedo.
Eat your greens in a pote Asturiano
Maybe it isn’t news that there aren’t many Spanish dishes with green vegetables. Perhaps it is news to you, or you haven’t thought about it. Why not? I believe it is true that there aren’t many green vegetables in Spanish cooking. Still, in Asturias, of course, they exceed all vegetable-containing expectations. A pote is a simple and humble soup flavoured with morcilla (Spanish blood sausage), chorizo, and pork fat added to potatoes, white beans, and cabbage. Hearty, yes, well, are you not hearty too?
Seafood and eat it
There is no better food than seafood and no better oysters than a Galician ostra edulis. Galicia is the region next to Asturias on the north coast. But anyhow, because we are in Asturias, more about that big bowl of soup made with bogavantes (sort of like little lobsters) and other bits and bobs. I went to the same restaurant twice to eat that soup. I did, and I'd do it again.
Fill yourself with Fabada
Fabada Asturiano is very similar to the pote (white beans, morcilla, chorizo, pork fat), cooked simply in water and a pinch of paprika to let the meats flavour the broth and do all the talking. You will find it absolutely everywhere, come rain or shine night or day. If you’re in Asturias, you will discover Fabada; I couldn’t be more for it.
Pair sweetbreads with a glass of vermouth blanco
If you are in Oviedo, go to Vinoteca El Gasconín and order a plate of sweetbreads (mollejas). Antonio, who runs the place with his lovely wife, would be happy to talk to you over a glass of vermouth about sweetbreads. In Asturias, they use cow glands, and it is stewed (not just because we are in the capital of stewed food, but because cow glands need the long and slow cook to be tender, but oh my, is it worth the hassle; they are like eating meaty butter, which is why a glass of vermouth blanco pairs so well to cut through the richness. Now I sound like a ponce, but it's true. In other regions of Spain, it is more common to eat lamb sweetbreads flashed in the pan. Anyway, Jose will tell you all about that, and tell him Lana says hi. (Lana dice hola).
Be in the hora de la vermut
The hour to drink vermouth (hora la vermut) is a Spanish thing in general, actually Madrileño, technically, I think? But it is adopted by any Spanish region that likes to drink. When in Oviedo, it was clear that Asturians fit that category as I came across the carnage that was la hora de vermut at La Paloma in Oviedo on a Sunday morning. It is originally something you do before church (yep, that's right), but nowadays, I would say it is something you drink as a ritual of hope for a great lunch. In La Paloma, there are three types of vermouth on tap, and they serve a simple tapa of deep-fried prawn. Everyone was in there for this, so of course, that is what I did, too.
Peruse Mercado El Fontán
We haven’t spoken about cheese yet; that is wild, as Asturias is a cheesy place. The luscious green landscapes are quite the environment for grazing cattle for milk. You’ll be able to try them all in the Oviedo market. They are most famous in Spain for the tres leches (three milk) cheese and gamoneu.
On a side note, the Gijón market is a bit of a sad place in comparison, one of the most derelict markets in Spain, but there is no reason why it should be! So maybe go there too and spread some tourist dollars; I’d be grateful.
Experience Asturian dogged commitment to tasty cider with the sidra escanciar technique
You see, the guy in the picture is pouring cider from a height with great precision into the glass? This is sidra escansiar, and it is a way of life in Asturias. Poured like this, the cider aerates, and the technique is to drink it little by little to keep each sip fresh. As you can see in the video, should a restaurant need more servers with the skills to pour you a cider, someone created a machine to do it for you instead. Not that is what I call commitment.
Enjoy your morning coffee on an empty beach
I wasn’t misleading you when I said that in Asturias, you can have the beach to yourself. This picture was taken in Playa Puerto Chico in Llanes. I swam every morning after my coffee, totally alone, and I wish I were there again right about now.
Bounce on a wave
It sure does get wavey out there baby, ain't that right gracey?
🎵Porque Asturias es mi patria
Y sincera es su bandera
Covadonga es la Santina
Más bonita de la tierra!!!!!🎶
Well, I never. Is that another gastro guide over and done with? I hope you liked it; see you in the next chapter, wonderful humans!
I am so grateful that you’re here, by the way.
Lots of Love from that bloody foody that is Lana
x
So happy to discover these guides! I've booked to Barcelona for July!
Great writing and pics!!! Me gusta! Tengo hambre!